Sunday, May 31, 2020

Rolled Crepes with Scrambled Eggs, Sauteed Onion and Mornay Sauce





I recently finished reading Dearie, a biography of Julia Child, by Bob Spitz. I had previously read My Life in France, an autobiography by Julia Child,  but it really only dealt with the years that Julia and her husband Paul spent in France. Dearie covers Julia from cradle to grave and really details the struggles she went through to become a very famous cook and then to write and publish her cookbooks and become a TV icon. At any rate, it inspired me to do a little more French cooking, using some of the recipes in Mastering The Art of French Cooking, by Child, Bertholle and Beck as a starting point.  To create the dish above I started by making the basic Crepe recipe from that famous cookbook. When I had the crepes done and held, I made a basic Bechamel(white sauce)  and added cheese, which makes it a Mornay Sauce. While that sauce was holding on the stove top, I sauted  2 Tablespoons of diced onions and then added five eggs beaten with milk to the same saute pan and scrambled them. To assemble the dish you spoon a quarter of the scrambled eggs onto a crepe, roll it up and lay it on the serving plate with the seam side down. As you can see I did two crepes per serving, and then topped the crepes with the Mornay Sauce and garnished with a little chopped fresh parsley. Here are the recipes for each of the components:

For the Crepes: (From Mastering the Art of French Cooking, by Child, Bertholle and Beck)
Ingredients:

1 Cup Cold Water
1 Cup Cold Milk
4 Eggs
1/2 tsp Salt
11/2 Cups Flour
4 TBSP Melted Butter

Preparation:

Using a nonstick pan that is 6 - 8" at the bottom melt the butter on med. heat. While the butter is melting put the water, milk, eggs, and salt into a blender jar. Add the flour. Add the melted butter and blend on high speed for one minute. Scrape down the sides of the blender jar with a rubber scraper and then blend again for a few seconds. Cover and refrigerate for at least two hours. 

The batter should be a very light cream, just thick enough to coat a wooden spoon. If after making your first crepe, it seems too heavy, beat in a bit of water a spoonful at a time. A cooked crepe should be about 1/16 inch thick. 

To make the crepes, I use a little different method than explained in the referenced cookbook. Place the same nonstick pan that you used to melt the butter on a med-high flame. Add a couple more tablespoons of butter to the pan and let it melt. Pour the melted butter into a small dish. You will use this melted butter to brush your pan with between each crepe. Brush your pan lightly with the melted butter and place on the med high burner. When the pan just begins to smoke lift the nonstick skillet off of the heat in your left hand. Using a measuring cup ladle about 1/4 to 1/3 cup of batter onto the left top side of the pan and swirl the pan to create a thin layer of batter covering the bottom of the pan. The amount of batter will depend on the size of pan you are using. Return the pan to the heat and let cook for 60-80 seconds. Using a spatula of fork, lift the edge of the crepe to check for color. You want the bottom of the crepe to be a nice golden color. When you think the crepe is done on the bottom grasp the edge of the crepe closest to you and quickly flip it over toward the rear of the pan. Alternately you can flip the crepe using the pan, but this takes a little practice. Cook the second side of the crepe for about 30 seconds, or just until it begins to brown. This will be the inside of your crepe. Remove the crepe from the pan by flipping it brown side down onto a rack to cool. Then you can stack the crepes one on another to hold. They will also hold nicely in a warm oven. 

For the Mornay Sauce:
Ingredients:

3 TBSP Butter
3 TBSP Flour
11/2 to 2 Cups Milk
1/2 Cup Grated Cheddar or Gruyere Cheese
Salt 
White Pepper
Dried Thyme

Preparation:

In a small heavy bottomed saucepan, melt the butter over low heat. Add the flour and whisk into the melted butter, until you have a smooth bubbly paste. Cook for a couple minutes to eliminate the raw flour taste. The butter/flour mixture is called a roux and is used in many sauces as a thickener. Off the heat, begin adding milk about a half cup at a time while constantly whisking. Add 11/2 cups milk total and return to medium high heat. Continue whisking until sauce thickens. If sauce is too thick whisk in a little more milk. If too thin, continue cooking until sauce reduces and thickens. Once you have the sauce at the consistency you want, reduce heat to lo. Add Grated cheese and whisk in to melt the cheese and blend into the sauce.  Flavor sauce to taste with salt, white pepper and dried thyme. Hold sauce on low heat. 

For the Eggs:
Ingredients:

1 TBSP Butter
2 TBSP Finely Diced Onion
5 Large Eggs
2 TBSP Milk
Salt and Pepper to taste
Chopped Fresh Parsley

Preparation:

Melt butter over medium heat in a nonstick skillet. Add onion and Saute until translucent. While onion is cooking, crack eggs into a small bowl and add the milk. Whisk together until fully blended. Add eggs to the sauted onions and cook. When eggs start to solidify, begin stirring and turning with a spatula. When eggs are almost done, turn off heat. The eggs will continue to cook in the warm pan. Season to taste with the salt and pepper. Assemble the dish on plates as described above. Serve with fresh fruit or a mixed green salad and crusty bread. 









Saturday, May 23, 2020

Classic Eggs Benedict





Is there a better way to start a Saturday morning than with Eggs Benedict ? I don't think so, so here is the recipe. It is really a very simple dish to make once you master the hollandaise sauce. 

Ingredients: (Serves Two)

For the Hollandaise:

10 TBSP Butter
3 Large Egg Yolks
1.5 TBSP Cold Water
1-2 tsps Fresh Lemon Juice
Salt 
White Pepper
Dash of Hot Sauce

For the Rest of the Dish:

2 English Muffins
4 Slices Canadian Bacon
4 Large Eggs
Vinegar
Chopped Fresh Parsley

Preparation:

Step one is to make the Hollandaise sauce. It will hold well while you prepare the rest of the dish. Slice the butter into small portions and melt over med-low heat in a sauce pan. Skim the foam off the top of the melted butter and keep warm. Add about an inch of water to the bottom of a double boiler and bring to a very low simmer. Off of the heat, place the egg yolks and water in the top of the double boiler or in a large stainless steel mixing bowl. I prefer the mixing bowl to the double boiler as it keeps the egg and water mixture further above the heated water and is less likely to curdle the eggs. (See Photo below.)




Whisk the eggs and water together until they are light and quite foamy. Place the bowl over, not in, barely simmering water and continue to whisk until the eggs are beginning to thicken, about three to five minutes. Do not let the eggs get too hot or they will begin to scramble. You can control the heat by lifting the bowl off of the pan a little. Once the eggs have thickened, remove the bowl from the heat and continue to whisk until the mixture has cooled slightly. Whisking constantly, add the warm butter very slowly to the egg mixture. When all of the butter is incorporated into the mixture you should have a wonderfully smooth thick sauce that is a nice yellow color. Now whisk in the lemon juice and salt and pepper to taste. Add a dash of hot sauce and whisk again. If at any time your sauce looks as if it is about to seperate, whisk in a few drops of cold cream. If the sauce does seperate, whisk another egg yolk in a separate bowl and then whisk that egg yolk into the sauce to reform the emulsion. That is all there is to it. To hold the sauce turn the heat off under the steaming water and set the bowl containing the sauce back on top of the pan.

Fill a soup pot with five to six inches of water. Add a couple of tablespoons of vinegar to the water and bring to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer. 

Place the Canadian Bacon in a nonstick skillet and heat on medium heat. Split the English muffins and toast. Butter when toasted. Lay the English Muffins on a plate and top with the Canadian Bacon

Crack an egg into a saucer and gently slide the egg into the simmering water. Repeat the process until you have all four eggs in the water. The pot needs to be large enough so that the eggs don't touch one another. It will take about five minutes to poach the eggs. Use a large slotted spoon to move any egg white that leaves an egg back to the egg. When the eggs are done use the slotted spoon to remove them one at a time from the water. Hold each egg in the spoon long enough to let any water drain from the egg and then place each egg on top of a muffin that has been topped with the Bacon. 

Spoon Hollandaise over each egg and top with a little chopped parsley. Serve with fresh fruit or a mixed green salad with a vinaigrette. You can also vary this recipe by substituting lox or sausage for the Canadian Bacon. Use your imagination and enjoy !!

Monday, May 4, 2020

From Scratch Lasagna



Completed lasagnas ready to cook or freeze


Since most of us are still confined to our homes, here is a project that will take up about half a day and you will end up with a couple of large pans of lasagna in your freezer, for when you can have friends and family over again. We will start by making a thick meat sauce. Then prepare the ricotta mixture and boil the lasagna noodles. Once all of these components are ready I will walk you through how to assemble the lasagna. If you are going to use one of the lasagnas immediately, start by preheating your oven to 350 degrees. If you want to freeze both pans you can skip that step. You will need two large lasagna pans. I use 9x12" aluminum lasagna pans. They need to be at least 2.5" deep. 

Sauce Ingredients:

2.5 Lbs. loose Italian sausage (you can mix italian sausage with                      ground beef if you prefer) 
2 tsp. Fennel Seed
2 TBSP Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 Med. Onion - finely diced
12 - 14 Garlic Cloves - minced
4  28Oz. Cans Crushed Italian Tomatoes
2  28 Oz. Cans Diced Tomatoes
2 TBSP +or - Italian Seasoning 
1 tsp. Salt
1/2 tsp. Black Pepper
Red Pepper Flakes - to taste

Sauce Preparation:

Using a large skillet, brown the Italian Sausage. Add the Fennel seed to the sausage as it is browning. I add the fennel as I like a very savory sauce. Feel free to leave the fennel out if you like your sauce a little less savory. You don't need to cook the sausage all the way through as it will cook more in the sauce and when you bake the lasagna. Add the olive oil to a large heavy bottomed soup pot over medium-low heat. Add the onion and sweat until the onion is translucent. Add the garlic and continue to cook for a minute or so, until the garlic has softened and is fragrant, but not brown. Add all of  the canned tomatoes, increasing the heat to medium. When the sauce begins to simmer and is hot all the way through, begin to add seasoning. Add about half of the Italian seasoning, half of the salt and pepper and a few red pepper flakes. Stir in and taste. Remember it is easier to add seasoning than it is to take it out. Keep adding seasoning as desired. You may use more or less than I have spelled out in the recipe. The important thing is the sauce tastes right to you. Once you like the seasoning in the sauce, using a slotted spoon, add the browned sausage and stir it into the sauce. Let the sauce simmer on low heat while you go on to the next steps. The result should be a very thick sauce, which is what you want for lasagna. Your sauce should look something like this:



Ricotta Mixture Ingredients:

2 -15Oz. containers Ricotta Cheese
1/2 Cup Grated Parmesan Cheese
2 TBSP Chopped Fresh Oregano
2 TBSP Chopped Fresh Parsley

Preparation:

Mix the parmesan cheese and the oregano and parsley into the ricotta. Beat until you have a smooth blend and the herbs are evenly spread through the mixture. Set aside.

Noodle Ingredients:

Large Pot of Water
1 TBSP salt
Roll of wax paper. 
24 Lasagna Noodles


Preparation:

Spread wax paper on your countertop, or better yet, in some jelly roll pans. You will need enough space to lay out 12 cooked noodles at a time. Add salt to the water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Add 12 noodles to the boiling water and cook per the package directions. Use a tongs to keep separating the noodles as they cook, so that they don't stick together. When noodles are al dente remove from the water one at a time with the tongs and lay out flat on the wax paper. In the picture below, you can see the cooked noodles laid out on the wax paper. If this looks like too much of a mess for you, you can use the noodles that don't require boiling. I don't like them for several reasons: the texture is different, you can't cut them to size, they are smaller, etc. etc. but I will leave that up to you. 





Now we are ready to begin assembling our first pan of lasagna. In the photo above you will see that I have set up an assembly line. You will need the following. 

Ingredients:

Lasagna Pan
Sauce from above recipe
Ricotta mixture from above recipe
Cooked Noodles
2.5 Cups Mozzarella Cheese for each pan of Lasagna
1/3 Cup Grated Parmesan for each pan of Lasagna

Preparation:

Using a rubber spatula, spread half of the ricotta mixture on the 12 cooked noodles while they are still laying on the waxed paper. I have learned that this is much easier and quicker that trying to spread the mixture on the noodles after you have laid them in the pan. Here is what my noodles looked like once they were spread with the ricotta mixture. 




Ladle about 2.5 Cups of Sauce into the bottom of one of the pans. The bottom of the pan should be covered but the sauce should not be too deep. Top the sauce with four of the noodles that have the ricotta mixture on them. Trim the noodles with a kitchen shears if they are too long for the pan. Sprinkle about 1/3 of the Mozzarella Cheese on the noodles. Now add another layer of sauce, then the next four noodles with Ricotta and another third of the Mozzarella. Repeat again with a third layer of sauce, noodles, ricotta and Mozzarella. Spread the 1/3 Cup Parmesan evenly over the top. Set the assembled lasagna aside. Now prepare the second batch of noodles as above and repeat the same assembly process for the second lasagna. If you are going to freeze either of the lasagnas allow it to cool. Once the lasagna has reached room temp you can cover it with Saran and foil and Freeze. If you are going to use the lasagna immediately, cover with foil and put in the 350 degree oven sitting on a cookie sheet. Cook for about forty minutes covered and then remove the foil and cook for another fifteen minutes or until it is hot and bubbly. Let stand for a few minutes before serving. This will allow the lasagna to set up and you will be able to cut nice portions that hold together. Serve with a green salad, crusty bread and a nice Italian red wine.  Enjoy!!!